Partly out of curiosity and a desire to explore Portland, and partly just to get off the farm after a draining week, we drove to Portland to see some art. Yesterday was "Last Thursday," the less established, "alternative" version of "First Thursday," the typical gallery walk. It takes place on Alberta Street, in a traditionally African- and Mexican-American neighborhood, that is now becoming gentrified. So we vacuumed the mouse nest off of the manifold of our Miata, turned down the convertible roof, and headed out the driveway on a very hot and sunny afternoon.
It is a journey to the city of almost two hours time. Driving generally relaxes me, and on a sunny day with the top down and a nice road, I have all the space I need to reflect. It's not too noisy in the convertible, but nonetheless, Amery and I don't feel compelled to discuss our lives with one another. It's pleasant just to sit. Driving, in the right situation, is like meditation, as there is something to concentrate on –the road, staying alive – but there is ample room to allow the mind to wander and to watch. Here, in the Columbia River Gorge, it is perhaps more like a directed meditation, as the shifting landscape providing a stream of content that is as alluring as it is, in the end, incomprehensible.
With the mouse-free engine we drive the one mile it takes to reach the street, and proceed another bit to get to the two lane highway. Turning from gravel to a paved road, I can bring the car to fifth gear, one short of the highest. It's a winding road up, then down from High Prarie to the town of Lyle. More often than not I am in fourth gear, finding the optimum balance of speed and rpm around the curves. About two-thirds the way and seven miles from the farm, we approach the crest overlooking the Gorge, which is always a thrill when space and panorama replace the interior confines of the mountain roads. Neither letting my mind wander too far away, nor allowing the adrenalin of the gear shaft and accelerator whisk me off, I pay attention to the road, which provides me with the mortal test of the sharpest curve. I pass, but Amery tells me she has seen several who haven't. I take it easy, and follow the road down its last curves to Lyle.
At Lyle we turn onto Washington State Route 14, another two-laner that is nestled between the steep rock cliffs on our right and the freight tracks on the left, with the river spreading grandly below. The road is one of gentle curves and hills. I am always immediately humbled by the rocks. They tower above us in all manner of shape, form, and texture. I never refuse a glance, yet am unable to fix my gaze on the unending variation. I'm driving at 60 mph, and I wonder whether it is the speed which creates the desire to fixate on this rich wealth of forms. If I were to stop, the cliffs would perhaps seem that much more static and impenetrable: going along, we are seduced by immobility, but find our way only by moving on.
As a child, during what might have been a lonely time of my life, I loved rocks. I considered rocks my friends, and even remember writing some poems about them. It seemed to me then, and still does now, that there is a being in rocks that is no less remarkable than the being we find in each other. Perhaps, as a young child, it was the enchantment of a long-lived experience that intrigued. Maybe I admired the way that the forces that shaped rocks gave them their hardened form, which was still only a moment in their openness to further experience.
We slow down to pass through the town of Bingen, and briefly accelerate towards the Hood River Bridge. It is small and narrow green bridge, with a metal grating that reveals the river below our whizzing tires. After paying our toll on the Oregon State side, we enter the onramp for Interstate 84 towards Portland. I set my cruise control for 69 mph.
Thus beings the next and longest phase of our journey. There are six lanes rather then two, and the rock cliffs don't hover so insistently. The tracks are still visible, with the occasional long-chained freight train passing through. There is space and panorama here now, and a sunny sky. We see the mountains which lead to the outcroppings of rocks, which border the river. There are windsurfers sailing on the river, in abundance generally, as the Gorge is one of the great centers of the sport. It feels good to be on this road, with this panorama.
Vaguely reminding me of Chinese landscapes garnered from paintings, the images I receive are rather seared into my brain as representing the archetypal West. They are real, however, simply green mountains and brown rock formed into various permutations of form by the slow acting out of geologic processes – or the violent collision of forces over time – whichever way you wish to view it. Over the summer I've been here, I've done this ride many times, and it seems both always new and deeply familiar. The combination of river and cliff provides an alternation between broad and flowing expanse on the one hand, and towering yet static immutable presence, on the other. The proliferation of rock forms suggest movement and dynamism of force, yet are frozen in time to our eyes. The river's force is visible, but only slightly: originating in a remote part of British Columbia, it is the largest river on this side of the Continental Divide – the current is swift below.
There is a deep sense of belonging as I pass through this landscape, but also a sense of being left with fragments and clues of a story I don't yet understand. I always try to put the story together, whatever story it is, but in the end, I am left only with what I see in front of me, and the feeling of pleasure and privilege of passing through. The comprehension will have to wait, maybe be infinitely deferred, while the pleasure is now, travelling on cruise control in our Miata on a bright sunny day in the Gorge.
It is a journey to the city of almost two hours time. Driving generally relaxes me, and on a sunny day with the top down and a nice road, I have all the space I need to reflect. It's not too noisy in the convertible, but nonetheless, Amery and I don't feel compelled to discuss our lives with one another. It's pleasant just to sit. Driving, in the right situation, is like meditation, as there is something to concentrate on –the road, staying alive – but there is ample room to allow the mind to wander and to watch. Here, in the Columbia River Gorge, it is perhaps more like a directed meditation, as the shifting landscape providing a stream of content that is as alluring as it is, in the end, incomprehensible.
With the mouse-free engine we drive the one mile it takes to reach the street, and proceed another bit to get to the two lane highway. Turning from gravel to a paved road, I can bring the car to fifth gear, one short of the highest. It's a winding road up, then down from High Prarie to the town of Lyle. More often than not I am in fourth gear, finding the optimum balance of speed and rpm around the curves. About two-thirds the way and seven miles from the farm, we approach the crest overlooking the Gorge, which is always a thrill when space and panorama replace the interior confines of the mountain roads. Neither letting my mind wander too far away, nor allowing the adrenalin of the gear shaft and accelerator whisk me off, I pay attention to the road, which provides me with the mortal test of the sharpest curve. I pass, but Amery tells me she has seen several who haven't. I take it easy, and follow the road down its last curves to Lyle.
At Lyle we turn onto Washington State Route 14, another two-laner that is nestled between the steep rock cliffs on our right and the freight tracks on the left, with the river spreading grandly below. The road is one of gentle curves and hills. I am always immediately humbled by the rocks. They tower above us in all manner of shape, form, and texture. I never refuse a glance, yet am unable to fix my gaze on the unending variation. I'm driving at 60 mph, and I wonder whether it is the speed which creates the desire to fixate on this rich wealth of forms. If I were to stop, the cliffs would perhaps seem that much more static and impenetrable: going along, we are seduced by immobility, but find our way only by moving on.
As a child, during what might have been a lonely time of my life, I loved rocks. I considered rocks my friends, and even remember writing some poems about them. It seemed to me then, and still does now, that there is a being in rocks that is no less remarkable than the being we find in each other. Perhaps, as a young child, it was the enchantment of a long-lived experience that intrigued. Maybe I admired the way that the forces that shaped rocks gave them their hardened form, which was still only a moment in their openness to further experience.
We slow down to pass through the town of Bingen, and briefly accelerate towards the Hood River Bridge. It is small and narrow green bridge, with a metal grating that reveals the river below our whizzing tires. After paying our toll on the Oregon State side, we enter the onramp for Interstate 84 towards Portland. I set my cruise control for 69 mph.
Thus beings the next and longest phase of our journey. There are six lanes rather then two, and the rock cliffs don't hover so insistently. The tracks are still visible, with the occasional long-chained freight train passing through. There is space and panorama here now, and a sunny sky. We see the mountains which lead to the outcroppings of rocks, which border the river. There are windsurfers sailing on the river, in abundance generally, as the Gorge is one of the great centers of the sport. It feels good to be on this road, with this panorama.
Vaguely reminding me of Chinese landscapes garnered from paintings, the images I receive are rather seared into my brain as representing the archetypal West. They are real, however, simply green mountains and brown rock formed into various permutations of form by the slow acting out of geologic processes – or the violent collision of forces over time – whichever way you wish to view it. Over the summer I've been here, I've done this ride many times, and it seems both always new and deeply familiar. The combination of river and cliff provides an alternation between broad and flowing expanse on the one hand, and towering yet static immutable presence, on the other. The proliferation of rock forms suggest movement and dynamism of force, yet are frozen in time to our eyes. The river's force is visible, but only slightly: originating in a remote part of British Columbia, it is the largest river on this side of the Continental Divide – the current is swift below.
There is a deep sense of belonging as I pass through this landscape, but also a sense of being left with fragments and clues of a story I don't yet understand. I always try to put the story together, whatever story it is, but in the end, I am left only with what I see in front of me, and the feeling of pleasure and privilege of passing through. The comprehension will have to wait, maybe be infinitely deferred, while the pleasure is now, travelling on cruise control in our Miata on a bright sunny day in the Gorge.